Why Basics Are No Longer Boring – or Cheap
Donni, Leset, Loulou de Saison, Matteau & C.o. – These brands aren’t reinventing the wheel, but everyone wants a ride
In my little fashion bubble, we don’t buy Margiela Tabis (will I ever get there?!), we leave most of the ’90s where they belong — in childhood photo albums, not our closets. Instead, we splurge on things “normal” people would call basic. Or worse: boring.
We hunt for the perfect vintage Levi’s like it’s the Holy Grail, dream of 500-euro woven baskets instead of grabbing one at the farmer’s market for a tenth of the price, and we’d rather have linen pants from Donni than H&M. We fantasize about The Row rubber flip-flops and Khaite cashmere sweaters that cost more than rent. Basically, we want to spend thousands just to look like ... everyone else. What is wrong with us?
Let’s find out: Is this just a desperate fashion-mom phenomenon —or are we all secretly searching for the simplicity of life, one white T-shirt, linen trouser, and cotton sweater at a time?
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Let’s start with my personal story — don’t worry, I’ll keep it short — before we dive into the Donni phenomenon.
Is my obsession with finding the perfect basics (guilty as charged) somehow connected to becoming a mom? Maybe. But honestly, even before motherhood, I was always chasing that elusive ideal pair of jeans — only to spot them on other women while my own wardrobe filled up with “close-enoughs.”
Motherhood, with all its beautiful chaos, has definitely made me more “basic” — and I mean that in the best possible way. These days, with time pressure and the contents of the diaper bag constantly running through my head, I simply don’t have the bandwidth to try on twenty outfits each morning like I used to when nothing felt quite right. I reach for reliable combos: jeans, shirt, T-shirt, jacket — then switch things up with accessories or shoes.
I no longer want 200 pairs of jeans. I want ten that actually do the job — and do it well. I want one pair of linen trousers that I can mix and match with all my summer tops. And I want clothes that survive mango ice cream stains and still look fresh after twenty rounds in the washing machine.
But most of all, I want comfort. I want to chase my kid across the playground, climb jungle gyms, ride a bike without flashing my underwear, and carry him on my hip without my tiny top suddenly turning into a crop-top-from-hell moment. Because the truth is: as a mom, you’re constantly in motion. And your clothes need to keep up.
So yes, it makes total sense that brands targeting (well-off) moms focus on basics rather than ballgowns, sequins, or ultra-delicate cashmere. It’s just the nature of the game.
But then the real question is: why don’t we just buy our basics at Zara, H&M, and the like? Why don’t we take the more pragmatic route with the mindset of “It’s going to have a stain before 9 a.m. anyway”?
Because deep down, we don’t want to be labeled just as moms. We still feel like fashion girls. We want our basics to feel special, elevated, luxurious — even perfect. That desire doesn’t only apply to mothers, by the way. It’s universal.
And that’s exactly where brands like Donni come in — alongside Leset, Loulou de Saison, Matteau and the rest of the understated-luxury crew. Buying Donni doesn’t just get you a sweatshirt. It makes you feel like a cool girl who somehow wakes up fabulous, with zero effort. Effortless — that’s the magic word. And it’s the reason we keep getting pulled into the arms of these ridiculously expensive basic brands.
And honestly? As fashion girls, I totally get it: fast fashion brands do offer basics — but they don’t play the marketing game nearly as well as the luxury labels. If I’m spending over $300 (plus import taxes in Europe!) on a pair of cotton pants, I want to believe that every detail has been obsessed over — that the design is perfect. That’s exactly the kind of image brands like Leset and co. have mastered. No wonder their designs are now being copied one-to-one by Victoria’s Secret and the rest.
I want someone to tell me — better yet, guarantee — that I’ve found the perfect basic. That the quality is worth the price. I don’t want to take the risk, invest my time, and end up disappointed. I want confidence, curation, and the feeling that someone has already done the hard part for me.
Basics also come with a universal promise: they go with everything — always. Styling stress? A thing of the past. And thanks to their ultra-luxe quality and clever design, they still manage to look anything but basic. Tempting, right?
Of course, statistically speaking, it’s worth pointing out that basic-focused brands have a much easier time on the market than niche labels with bold, directional designs. Those might spike in popularity, but they often fade just as fast. Basics, on the other hand, are for everyone — whether it’s a white T-shirt, a simple pair of pants, or a button-up shirt. Especially in menswear, these pieces make up 99% of sales and fly off the shelves. No one buys just one white tee in their lifetime — you replace it, you stock up, you wear it to death. Basics sell.
Which is exactly why more and more basic brands keep popping up — even though, let’s be honest, the market feels saturated already.
So what better way to wrap this up than by showing you the elevated basic brands currently blowing up on Instagram and TikTok? Of course I will — you know I’ve got you covered!
Donni - The Cool Mum Pants (Headline by The Cut)
Donni is our case study here — a brand that’s built a loyal, influential (and let’s be honest, financially comfortable) fanbase out of fashion moms. Myself included. With perfect neutrals, effortlessly cool cuts, and
(please follow her Substack) at the helm, Donni ticks every box. Am I close to accepting those dreaded import taxes just to get my hands on a pair? Honestly … I might be. For Donni? I just might do it.Leset – I’ll take the set in two colors, thanks.
Leset nails that celebrity-approved white tee moment — Jennifer Lawrence, Selena Gomez, Kendall Jenner… the list goes on. The slim-fit Margo Tee, with scalloped or pointelle detail, costs about $68 — a luxury compared to fast-fashion counterparts, but the quality shows: it holds its shape, washes well, and remains a wearable staple season after season. In short, Leset basics feel premium without shouting it.
Matteau – Cotton, but make it expensive.
Australian sisters Ilona Hamer and Peta Heinsen founded Matteau with sustainability and timelessness at its core. Whether it's their iconic Square swimsuit or organic cotton poplin pants, everything is crafted to last a lifetime — not trend-chase. Made in Australia with minimalist elegance and premium fabrics, Matteau is for the woman seeking enduring style, not just momentary hype — even before Instagram made it a summer cult favorite
Loulou de Saison – Not quite mainstream yet, which makes it even cooler.
Born in 2019 in Paris from influencer Chloé Harrouche’s quest for a perfectly draped knit, Loulou de Saison delivers essentials with a French twist. Expect neutral palettes, precision tailoring, and luxurious materials — think a silken “Bruzzi” sweater that Camille Charrière can’t resist. Rooted in craftsmanship across France, Italy, Mongolia, and Portugal, the pieces feel both minimal and subtly powerful — your wardrobe’s quietly commanding je ne sais quoi.
The Row – Won the lottery? There will be signs.
Launched in 2006 by Mary‑Kate and Ashley Olsen, The Row began with a seemingly simple mission: design the perfect white T‑shirt. Today, it's quietly redefined modern luxury — understated tailoring, premium fabrics, logo‑free elegance. Think flawless sweats and high‑end basics that compete with Hermès yet blend effortlessly into a New York morning routine. The Row doesn’t chase trends — it creates them.
Khaite – If you can pronounce it, you're in the club.
Launched in 2016 by Catherine Holstein, Khaite is all about American East Coast poise — compressing masculine structure into feminine ease. Its moment came when Katie Holmes wore the cashmere bra‑cardigan combo, sending demand through the roof. Now it spans cashmere, denim, leather, bags and heels — each piece embodying that elusive “I’m so put‑together” energy.
Suzi Kondi – Your bank account won’t thank you.
Built on the cult of comfort with a luxe twist, Suzi Kondi delivers elevated athleisure that won’t embarrass your yoga‑class‑to‑coffee‑run vibe. Think buttery soft hoodies, clever joggers, and relaxed layering — tailored for those who want softness without skimping on style. The bank account? Might not thank you, but your daily wardrobe will.
Comme Si – Quietly climbing the cool-girl charts.
Quietly scaling the cool‑girl charts, Comme Si is the hidden luxe gem for French‑tinted basics. Clean silhouettes, total focus on fit and fabric, with a Paris‑meets‑prep sensibility that’s low-key but not low-effort. It’s the kind of brand you only discover because your style radar is finely tuned — and then wonder how you ever lived without it.
Flore Flore – If you know, you know.
Amsterdam‑based since 2021 and rooted in heritage — this is the sinfully soft basic tee with a conscience. Produced in family‑run Portuguese factories with Albini shirting from Italy, each piece from Flore Flore whispers quality — and gives back through 1% for the Planet. If you’ve worn it, you know the comfort; if you haven’t, you’ll spot the quiet confidence on the street.
Still Here – The most expensive jeans of your life? Possibly.
This NYC‑born denim hero is co‑run by Sonia Mosseri and brother Maurice, but it’s Sonia’s childhood memories of her dad’s well-loved jeans that fuel the vision. Think hand‑painted stripes, artisan embroidery, and vintage washes – all crafted in L.A. With celebrity fans from Hailey Bieber to Emma Chamberlain, Still Here jeans are the “cool twist” your denim game needs – served up sustainably and tastefully.
With Nothing Underneath – The name says it all.
What begins as the ideal button‑down evolves into a full minimalist arsenal, now including blazers and trousers. Founded by ex‑Vogue stylist Pip Durell in 2017, WNU nails a crisp, masculine shirt fit with an affordable, no‑sale philosophy. With stellar rates of repeat buyers and returns under 20%, it proves that quality demand doesn't need hype.
Deiji Studios – Aussie fashion feelings, wrapped in linen.
Australian-made linen gets a cult following with Deiji, thanks to laid-back elegance and artisanal techniques. Think wide cut pants, slouchy silhouettes, and fabric that breathes. It’s that breezy, down-under vibe — minimal, chic, and unapologetically relaxed — ideal for summer or anytime you crave quiet luxury.
Baserange – Is this where it all began?
Founded in 2012 by Marie‑Louise Mogensen and Blandine Legait with a mission that’s part Zen, part wardrobe hero, Baserange started with wire‑free underwear and now spans ready‑to‑wear, menswear, and eco‑home goods. Its pieces — think earthy-toned tees, bamboo basics, and unisex silhouettes — are slow‑grown, locally‑sourced in France, Kyoto, Copenhagen and more. The brand is designed for living in harmony with the body and planet — a quietly luxurious approach that feels thoughtful at every stitch.
Kallmeyer – The “affordable” Row (in theory).
Marketed as the “affordable” answer to The Row, Kallmeyer designs echo similar proportions — but at friendlier price points. Tailored neutrals, relaxed suiting, classic cuts with modern ease. You feel elevated without the same investment — and it hits that snug sweet spot of aspiration meets accessibility.
La Ligne – Your one-stop shop for all the right basics.
Founded by ex‑magazine pros in 2014, La Ligne riffs on stripes—Bretons, ribbed skirts, button‑downs — with a wink. The dual Essentials vs Edition line gives you safe wardrobe staples alongside playful offshoots when you’re in the mood to experiment. Think editorial cool crossed with everyday wearability.
Rohé – More fashion than basic—but still very much on brand.
Where fashion and basics blur elegantly. Rohé’s wide-leg trousers and fluid silhouettes have earned them cult‑status among fashion editors. These aren’t your grandma’s basics — they’re sculptural, modern, and carry just enough edge to elevate your capsule wardrobe into artful simplicity.
Is there a high-end basics label you swear by? Is the Margot Tee really worth the hype? Or have you already taken the plunge and paid Donni’s import duties? Let me know!
Here’s a little sneak peek of what’s coming your way in the next issue:
Yes, we’re back in the rhythm — did you notice I’ve been flooding your inbox twice a week again? Still, I haven’t quite decided what to write about this Sunday. I actually have a great interview ready, just waiting on a few photos.
Otherwise, we could dive into some heatwave styling tips … or finally take a closer fashion look at all those amazing Australian brands. Any preferences?!