This is German Fashion!
No need to hide – quite the opposite! Today, I’m showing you some amazing brands from the Berlin Fashion Week!
If Berliners know one thing, it’s how to complain. And we do it well – about everything and everyone. Too loud, too boring, too dirty, too snobby. We all live in the same city, but everyone does it their own way.
Except when it comes to Berlin Fashion Week. That one’s stuck in a never-ending comparison game – always measured against Paris, London, New York, and Copenhagen, only to be told it can’t keep up. Too commercial when big sponsors and global brands show up. Too irrelevant when indie designers take the stage. It’s a no-win situation.
At least, that was the narrative for years. But things have been shifting for the past seasons!
I regularly share articles I've written for BEIGE in this newsletter. The exciting part? For the first time, you can read them in English! This piece was originally published on BEIGE, but it’s been slightly updated and adapted for Substack. Here’s the original version in German.
Disclaimer: This newsletter contains advertisements, as it includes (unpaid) brand mentions. Some links are affiliate links, meaning I earn a small commission if you purchase a product through them. Don’t worry, it doesn’t cost you anything extra!
Back in 2015, the Fashion Council Germany was founded to strengthen the German fashion and design scene for a visionary, tech-driven, and sustainable future in a global market. And with increasing influence, growing membership, and a stronger international network, they’re making it happen. The Berlin Senate funds Fashion Week, pouring hundreds of thousands – sometimes even millions – of euros each season into supporting local labels and events.
Because fashion isn’t just about clothes. It’s business, culture, and branding for Germany’s capital. And it’s worth investing in. This season, the guest list was stacked with international names, with editors and creators flying in from all over. Just to name a few front-row faces: Brenda Hashtag, Caro Daur, Akimoto Kozue, Declan Chan, Stefanie Giesinger, Hanan Besovic – and plenty more. Even Vogue Runway covered the shows.
The quality of Berlin Fashion Week is rising – not just thanks to better funding and bigger crowds, but also because of the labels showing here. Case in point: GmbH, one of Germany’s globally successful brands, chose to present in Berlin for the second time, despite having spent seasons in Paris, where the buyers' presence is much stronger. That’s not a coincidence.
And Berlin played it smart this season: Instead of clashing with other major fashion weeks (as it often did in the past), it slotted itself neatly into the weekend gap between Copenhagen and New York – a strategic move (even if not the most worker- or family-friendly one).
Now, let’s talk about the shows. No, this review won’t cover everything – I wasn’t at every single one, and there’s only so much space here. But one thing’s for sure: Read this, and you’ll be in the know.
William Fan: From the Peking Opera to the Berlin Philharmonic
This season, two brands celebrated their 10-year anniversaries at Berlin Fashion Week: William Fan and Marina Hoermanseder. Both have been shaping the event for years – one with sophisticated, highly wearable fashion and breathtaking show locations, the other with trash-TV vibes and circus-like productions. Both grab media attention, but when it comes to true industry relevance and defining Berlin’s style, William Fan stands in a league of his own. Over the past decade, he’s seen plenty of labels come and go – but his vision remains strong.
For this milestone, Fan chose the Berlin Philharmonic as his show venue. But instead of a greatest-hits collection, he stayed true to his style, subtly reinterpreting his signature pieces – statement coats, bags, accessories, layered silhouettes, opulent embellishments, and jacquard fabrics. Unlike many Berlin-based labels, Fan’s designs aren’t just runway showstoppers (looking at you, Hoermanseder) – they actually sell and seamlessly fit into everyday fashion.
This season’s inspiration? The Peking Opera. A theme that influenced not just the collection, but also the intricate makeup and the choice of venue – bridging the worlds of Asia and Europe. Walking the runway were familiar faces like Bruce Darnell, German Soap star Wolfgang Bahro, and Vogue editor Maria Hunstig.
And in true William Fan style, the show didn’t end with the final walk. Instead, the audience was treated to a live piano concert, with models still dressed in Fan’s creations – seamlessly blending into the scene as stylishly orchestrated guests, enthusiastically applauding the musicians.
SF1OG: Fashion, Myth & Mystery
Getting in at Berghain without a struggle – that’s the dream. And for many (invited!) guests at the SF1OG show, it almost came true. The show took place right next door, in Halle am Berghain, giving attendees a taste of Berlin’s most legendary nightlife spot.
Founded by Rosa Marga Dahl and Jacob Langemeyer, SF1OG has become the breakout label in Berlin’s fashion scene. Their invites are some of the most coveted, and for good reason.
Sustainability and resource-conscious production are at the core of SF1OG’s ethos. They bring that mindset to a young, style-savvy audience – one that is rebellious, nostalgic (maybe unintentionally?), and ready to invest in thoughtful fashion. Their latest collection dove deep into youth subcultures, channeling '90s grunge (Kurt Cobain would’ve loved those striped cardigans) and the early 2000s indie era, complete with skinny jeans and feather-trimmed jackets.
But the biggest buzz? The front row. Few shows had a guest list with this much reach. Even influencer and fashion critic Brenda Hashtag broke her Berlin Fashion Week boycott to take a front-row seat – undoubtedly for a well-paid appearance.
Which leaves everyone asking: Where’s all the money coming from? The €25,000 prize from the BFW Berlin Contemporary Concept Competition – which was awarded to 18 other brands as well – hardly seems enough to cover this guest list, venue, and production.
One thing’s for sure: SF1OG isn’t just playing the game – they’re changing it.
Avenir: Coming of (Denim) Age
From day one, Avenir has been a label to watch. Founded by Sophie Claussen, its DNA is rooted in denim and recycling – but over the past five years, it has evolved far beyond that. What started as a youthful, affordable made-to-measure jeans brand has matured into a label with sharp tailoring, two distinct lines, and an unwavering commitment to sustainability.
This season marked a new high point for Avenir, not least because of its stunning show location: the Château Royal, a sleek, high-end hotspot in Berlin-Mitte. Under the theme "Galleria," models wove their way through the hotel’s lobby, bar, restaurant, fireplace lounge, and winter garden – a runway experience infused with the sounds of clinking glasses, bartenders at work, and amazed hotel guests watching it all unfold.
To truly grasp this collection, you had to go beyond just the visuals. A collaboration with British artist Arthur Laidlaw (who lives in Berlin) shaped both the color palette and artistic energy of the pieces. The result? Standout designs like a painted coat, boots, and denim, as well as delicate prints from Laidlaw’s drawings on silk garments.
Avenir also brought in other local brands to elevate the collection. Prum crafted jewelry pieces, from belts and chains to gemstone-embellished straps, while Studio Ena contributed their signature silver jewelry clip – a striking addition to Avenir’s recurring bestseller, the oversized blazer.
What’s better than young, independent brands (and women!) working together to bring their vision of wearable, innovative, and sustainable fashion to life? Absolutely nothing.
Laura Gerte: Techno & Tailoring
Once upon a time, you might have grouped Avenir and Laura Gerte together – both work with recycled materials and denim. But those days are long gone. Each designer has carved out her own path: Avenir went for the refined elegance of Château Royal, while Laura Gerte took over Kranzler Eck, hosted by Multisex, the electronic party collective.
The vibe? Pure techno energy. With DJ Gigola providing the (obviously) electronic soundtrack, Gerte sent a collection down the runway that was equal parts club-ready and couture-inspired. Cables and long straps transformed classic silhouettes, reinterpreting fashion staples for the dance floor – all while staying true to upcycled materials.
If this is the new standard for clubwear – and maybe even a wake-up call to rethink our screen time – then Berlin’s next-gen designers are definitely on the right track.
Richert Beil: Motherhood or Captivity?
Richert Beil took a raw, almost unsettling approach. The invitation? A baby bottle. The opening sound? Wailing infants – a surefire way to send chills down spines (or, for some guests, trigger an unexpected milk letdown).
This collection put a spotlight on what society so often ignores: care work and its physical and emotional toll. And what better setting than the Fichtebunker – once a wartime refuge for mothers and children – to underscore the feeling of motherhood as both sanctuary and confinement? Because let’s be real: even the most devoted moms know that motherhood can feel like a trap.
The emotional intensity didn’t stop with the sound design. The casting added another layer: a mother and son, another with two daughters, and a visibly pregnant model walked the runway, making the message impossible to ignore.
The fashion itself? Constricting, symbolic, and sharply tailored. Shirts pulled over heads like balaclavas evoked a sense of suffocation. A sheer cape revealing milk canisters made an unmistakable statement. Elsewhere, structured suits, coats, and crisp shirts reinforced the idea that care work is real work – and it’s time society treated it as such.
Of course, this is far from the full list of incredible Berlin-based labels I want to share with you – as a proud fashion journalist (and, let’s be real, an excited customer). Some brands didn’t show at Berlin Fashion Week, whether for financial reasons or other considerations.
So, if you’re interested, let’s keep the conversation going and dive back into German fashion sometime soon. Because trust me, there’s so much more to discover!
Here’s a little sneak peek of what’s coming your way in the next issue on Wednesday:
Don't worry, it’s going to get personal again soon. Our big trip is approaching, and I’ll tell you more about our travel plans – but of course, also about the fashion challenges that come with such a big journey!
Loved the William Fan pieces and his model cast! Maybe we’re slowly turning into a fashion nation after all!